History of Dhakai Sarees

Dhakai Saree

The history of Dhakai sarees traces its origins to the ancient weaving traditions of

Bengal, with Dhaka (now the capital of Bangladesh) as its epicenter. The art of weaving

in this region dates back to at least the 4th century BCE, during the Maurya Empire,

when textiles, especially cotton, played a vital role in trade and cultural expression. By

the Mughal era (16th–19th century), Dhaka had gained international renown for its

muslin—an ultra-fine, almost transparent fabric—earning it the title “Muslin Capital of

the World.” This exquisite fabric laid the foundation for the evolution of the Dhakai

saree.

Dhakai sarees derive their name from Dhaka and are intrinsically linked to the Jamdani

weaving technique, a UNESCO-recognized intangible cultural heritage. Jamdani

involves the meticulous hand-weaving of ornate patterns into fabric using a

supplementary weft technique, producing motifs that appear to float on the fabric’s

surface. During the Mughal period, this labor-intensive craft reached its zenith, with

Dhakai sarees featuring intricate floral, geometric, and paisley patterns that symbolized

luxury and sophistication. They were highly coveted by royalty and nobility, both in India

and abroad.

However, the British colonial era (1757–1947) brought immense challenges to Dhaka’s

weaving industry. The British undermined local artisans by promoting cheaper,

machine-made textiles from England, leading to a significant decline in the demand for

Dhakai muslin and sarees. Despite these hardships, the craft persisted in reduced

capacities, with weavers adapting their techniques to cater to local markets. The Dhakai

saree evolved during this period, incorporating less expensive cotton threads while

maintaining its characteristic motifs and elegance.

The Partition of India in 1947 caused further disruption to the Dhakai weaving tradition.

Many weavers relocated from East Bengal (modern Bangladesh) to West Bengal

(India), establishing new weaving centers in regions like Shantipur and Nadia. This

migration led to the creation of variations of Dhakai sarees, blending traditional Jamdani

techniques with local styles. Despite these changes, Dhaka remained a hub for

authentic Dhakai saree weaving, though the industry struggled under economic and

social upheavals.

Following the independence of Bangladesh in 1971, efforts to revive and preserve

traditional crafts, including Dhakai sarees, gained momentum. The new nation

recognized the cultural and economic value of its weaving heritage, leading to initiatives

that supported local artisans and promoted Dhakai sarees as a symbol of national

identity. By the late 20th century, innovations in design and color palettes were

introduced, making Dhakai sarees more accessible to younger generations and

international markets. The incorporation of silk and synthetic fibers alongside traditional

cotton brought further variety to this iconic saree.

Today, Dhakai sarees are celebrated for their unparalleled craftsmanship and intricate

artistry. The sarees, characterized by their delicate textures and elaborate motifs, are

prized for their elegance and versatility. Whether worn during weddings, festivals, or

other cultural events, the Dhakai saree continues to symbolize Bengali heritage and

artistic excellence, bridging centuries of tradition with modern aesthetics.